How to Propagate Monstera Adansonii

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Propagating Monstera adansonii is a simple approach to expanding your collection of plants for sharing with friends or for your delight. Singly-eye cuttings best propagate this plant, but terminal cuttings and divisions will also work well.

How To Use Monstera Adanosii Cuttings to Propagate Them

Monstera Adonsonii Plant Health Factors

Cuttings should generally be made from the most recent or current season’s growth. Take cuttings from the top of the plant from healthy, disease-free plants.

Rooting may be influenced by the stock plant’s (parent) reproductive state. Avoid taking cuttings from plants that exhibit signs of nutritional deficit in minerals.

Also, avoid recently fertilized plants, especially nitrogen and stock plants under moisture stress. The health and vigor of your Monstera adansonii are important success factors in propagation success.

The success rate with younger plants is typically better than cuttings from older, more mature plants. Also, remember that lateral shoot cuttings take root more readily than terminal shoot cuttings.

Taking the Cutting From your Monstera Adansonii

Because the plant is fully turgid in the morning, this is the ideal time to take cuttings. The cuttings must be kept cool and moist until they are planted.

Cuttings can be kept in an ice chest or a dark plastic bag with moist paper towels. If attaching cuttings will take some time, put them in a plastic bag and put the bag in the fridge.

Even though the best propagation part of the stem is the terminal tip, a long shoot can be cut into several cuttings. Typically, cuttings are three to four inches long.

Use pruning shears or a pocket knife with a thin, sharp blade. Anvil shears are less suitable. Sterilizing your tools will help prevent the spread of pathogens from diseased plant parts to healthy ones.

Use either EM-1®, rubbing alcohol, or a solution of one part bleach to nine parts water as sterilizers.

Planting Your Monstera Adansonii Cutting

The lower one-third to half of the cutting should be leaf-free. Larger-leafed plants (like the Monstera adansonii) should have their remaining leaves trimmed smaller to save space and lessen water loss. Don’t do this with species that are more challenging to root.

Plants that might otherwise be hard to root can benefit from applying growth hormones. Before handling cuttings, place some rooting hormone in a different container to prevent contamination of the entire supply.

After treatment, any leftover material should be discarded and not returned to its original container. Tap the cuttings to eliminate extra powder using a powder formulation.

Rooting Medium

The rooting medium should be well-draining, sterile soil that ensures adequate aeration. Additionally, it should retain sufficient moisture so that less frequent watering is required.

Commonly utilized materials include expanded shale, coconut coir, sand, or a mixture of coconut coir and perlite. Avoid using vermiculite, which tends to compress and retain too much moisture. Keep the mix hydrated.

Using the Medium

Insert the cuttings into the medium between one-third and one-half of their length. Keep the stem’s vertical orientation, ensuring the buds are pointing upward.

Just enough space should be left between cuttings for all leaves to receive sunlight. If the containers or frames are three inches deep or more profound, water the plants again after planting the cuttings.

Avoid direct sunlight and place the cuttings in indirect light with a plastic cover.

To ensure that the cuttings take root, keep the medium wet – regular misting will steep the rooting up.

The type of cutting, the species being rooted, and the environmental factors – all affect how long it takes to establish roots.

Cuttings that have just taken root shouldn’t be transplanted into containers as soon as seeds are noticed. The likelihood of survival will be higher if you grow them more significantly before relocating them permanently.

Propagating Your Monstera Adansonii from Terminal Cuttings

Terminal or tip cuttings, taking a piece of the stem with one or more buds, is the most common method of propagating houseplants commercially. This technique is used on vining plants such as the Monstera adansonii and several other vines.

A terminal cutting with 2 to 4 inches and 4 to 6 leaves is optimal. After being taken from the joint, the cuttings should be prevented from wilting.

Make a cutting just below a node (the point at which leaves are attached to the stem).

  1. Remove the lowest pair of leaves.
  2. Insert the cutting into moist and sterile potting soil.
  3. Once cuttings are in place, make an inverted “U” shape with part of a coat hanger. Stick the inverted “U” shape into the pot to support a plastic bag.
  4. Place a clear or mostly clear plastic bag over the “U” shape. Make sure the bag is large enough to enclose the flowerpot. This creates a “rooting bag.”
  5. Place the rooting bag in a warm place that receives light but not direct sunlight.
  6. Once the bag is sealed, do not reopen until the cuttings have rooted; this takes 4 – 6 weeks.

Propagating Monstera Adansonii from Root Division

Plants with more than one rooted crown may be divided, and the crowns planted separately. If the stems are not joined, gently pull the plants apart. Cut the stems and roots with a sharp knife to minimize injury if horizontal branches unite the heights. 

Any plant that produces rhizomes or underground stems and any plant with a crown and not an elongated above-ground stem can be propagated via division. 

  1. The best to divide plants is when they are coming out of a period of stagnant growth. Usually, this is in the late winter or early summer.
  2. Tear apart the plant. Make sure to keep as much of the root system intact as possible.
  3. Replant all divisions at the same level they were growing.

You can plant multiple divisions in the same pot to achieve the look of a fuller pool sooner.

Hardening Newly Propagated Plants

When plants are moved from a greenhouse or indoor setting to a garden, hardening changes the quality of plant development to resist environmental circumstances.

Plants grown indoors that are placed outdoors without a break could suffer a significant growth restriction. When harsh weather conditions are possible, early crops require the most hardening.

Hardening can be done by gradually lowering the temperature, relative humidity, and water content.

Carbohydrates build up due to this process, and cell walls become thicker. The soft, succulent type of growth is preferred to convert to a stiffer, tougher type.

Plant growth is expected to be slowed by the hardening procedure. Certain crops may suffer serious harm if the process is taken to inhibit plant growth.

Wrapping up Monstera Adasonii Propagation

I made every effort to keep this article brief and to the point, but this is such an essential component of successfully propagating Monstera Adasonii that I tried to cover every aspect.

However, if you have learned something, I’m happy. My goal has been accomplished if you now deeply appreciate your Monstera adansonii.

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