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Philodendrons come in various leaf colors and sizes; some grow to such a size that they are called tree philodendrons. Others are vining and ideal for hanging baskets, while others are non-climbing.
Due to variations in leaf shape and size between the juvenile and adult growth stages and the enormous quantity of hybrids created for commercial purposes, it isn’t easy to distinguish between the different species of Philodendron.
The International Aroid Society has 655 species listed under the Philodendron genus. This large tropical plant genus is divided into two major types: climbing and non-climbing.
Scrolling through many plants to find what you’re looking for is no fun. I have tried to group and index the huge variety of interesting Philos, making it easier to find what you’re looking for.
Groupings also help care for them, as similar plants have similar light, temperature, and humidity needs. Common to all are well-draining pots and soil rich in organic matter.
Below you will find 25 of my favorite varieties, and a bonus for you is the general care of those species at the end. So ensure to read on.
1. Heart Leaf philodendron (P. hederaceum)
Brazil, the West Indies, and Mexico are the original home of P. hederaceum. It is frequently called heart leaf philodendron and may be the most well-known variety available. Although plants can reach 20 feet in their natural habitat, indoor plants are typically about 4 feet tall.
Bright, glossy, heart-shaped, dark green leaves with a possible bronze tint are characteristic of P. hederaceum.
On young plants, leaves normally reach a length of 4 inches, but mature plants can grow to 12 inches.
If supported, this plant’s twining stems will either trail from a container or climb up a column. Though rarely, mature indoor plants produce blooms of the greenish-white arum family.
P. hederaceum is a popular indoor plant because of its aesthetic appeal and ease of care. You can train it on a trellis or moisture-retaining column or trail it down from a container or hanging basket.
The P. hederaceum is also called vilevine, and popular varieties include Brasil, Areum, and Micans.
2. ‘Pink Princess’ Philodendron (P. erubescens)
‘Pink Princess’ is a slow-growing, hybrid philodendron selection that features colorful, variegated foliage and an upright, vining habit.
Mature plants can reach 4+ feet tall with 2 feet spread. The heart-shaped leaves are dark purplish-green with contrasting pink variegation and can reach up to 8 inches long and 5 inches wide.
The pink coloration is variable, emerging as large splotches, small streaks, or occasionally an entire leaf. The typical arum-type inflorescences are rarely produced by houseplants but consist of a purple-red spathe surrounding a white spadix.
Pink Princess Care Guide
- Best grown in part shade in soil humus-rich soil with regular irrigation. Constant irrigation implies predictable cycles of drought and moist soil.
- Too much shadow will cause leggy growth and a reduction in variegation.
- Avert the direct midday sun.
- It needs a trellis or other type of framework to support it.
- Maintain a compact size through pruning.
- Remove reverted foliage to boost variegation.
- Hardy in frost-free Zones 10 and upwards.
3. Majesty Philodendron (P. erubescens)
A beautiful sub-hybrid interbred between two Burgundy hybrids, the majesty philodendron has become widely popular in recent years.
Classified as one of the least fussy varieties of philodendrons, the Pink Princess guide (above) can be followed.
It has large leaves that can grow up to 18 inches long with typically green petioles but can also be red. The Majesty is ideal for something special with massive, attractive leaves.
P. erubescens grow as an epiphyte on other plants or trees, so providing support is essential. As an epiphyte, it’s unusual that the Majesty doesn’t produce areal roots.
You can train it on a trellis, a moisture-retaining column, providing a height of up to 6 feet. The Philodendron ‘Majesty’ is ideal as a centerpiece surrounded by subject aroids.
4. Elephant’s Ear philodendron (P. domesticum)
Also known as spade leaf philodendron, it has arrow-shaped glossy leaves that grow 22 inches long and 9 inches wide when mature. Also called the burgundy philodendron gets its name from the color of its climbing stems and new growth.
Broad, spade-shaped leaves of up to 2 feet long, medium green in color, and with a waxy surface, grow on thick petioles.
This coarse-textured plant makes an excellent low-light plant that may climb to considerable heights. Alternatively, you can drape the tendrils from a large basket. Remember to check for soil dry before watering it again.
5. Brandi philodendron (P. brandtianum)
One of the easiest-to-care-for plants and the ideal selection for newcomers to the Philodendron genus is Philodendron Brandtianum.
Although Philodendron Brandtianum is known for its beauty in hanging baskets, it may also be trained to climb. A different trellis is needed for climbing philodendrons with aerial roots than most other indoor plants.
6. Birdsnest philodendron (P. imbe)
The P. imbe is a robust, evergreen climbing shrub that may reach a height of 20 feet and has long aerial roots that descend to the ground.
Like most aroids, the P. imbe prefers moist, well-drained, humus-rich soil and a position in partial shade.
These plants are generally low feeders but benefit from occasional feeds rich in magnesium (consider using Epsom salt (Magnesium Sulphate) twice a year.
7. Silver Sword (P. hastatum)
This gorgeous plant, Philodendron Silver Sword, is simple to cultivate and propagate inside the home. This plant is an essential aroid collector’s piece as it adds unusual differentiated hues to your tropical paradise.
The silvery leaves are breathtaking, and as an epiphyte, it offers cascades of color and texture to your collection.
Choose an eastern-facing window to capture the morning light. The new leaves are lighter green and will turn silvery as they mature.
Because these plants climb, you’ll need to give them something to connect to and climb on to get the full impact.
Along with the vines, Silver Sword will grow roots that securely cling to whatever building you utilize as support.
When the plant has a structure to attach to and climb on, your plant will be encouraged to form deeply lobed adult foliage.
Juvenile leaves will lack lobes. Your plant will always retain its juvenile leaves if you don’t provide climbing support.
This plant is simple to take care of indoors, just like most other aroids of the Philodendron genus. It’s vital to remember that the plant can be very sensitive to disturbances, especially when new growth and unfolding leaves are involved.
If the plant is supported, such as a moss pole, the foliage will likely develop to its maximum size potential.
The color of its leaf is quite accurately described by its scientific name, which translates roughly as “black gold.” It has extraordinarily large, thick, velvety, black leaves that eventually change color.
Young growth frequently has a golden crimson hue that darkens with age. The leaf venation is a delicate green contrasting sharply, giving the specimen a striking appearance.
On mature potted plants, the leaves are normally around 10 inches long.
9. Grazielae Philodendron (P. grazielae)
A gracious and elegant philodendron variety, the Grazielae features the iconic heart-shaped leaves we’re accustomed to seeing on these plants; however, its leaves are wider and much glossier.
Despite these regal features, P. Grazielae isn’t difficult to grow and have the same general care requirements as any philodendron variety.
The P. Grazielae is no taller than 3 feet, and its leaves are medium-sized, ideal either as a tabletop plant or grown in a hanging basket.
Philodendron Florida Beauty (the plain green plant) was a hybrid of P. pedatum and P. squamiferum produced by Robert McColley during his breeding program in the 1950s.
The variegated form, Florida Beauty, and the Florida Ghost are the original hybrid’s sports (genetic mutations). [source]
The color of new leaves changes from white to yellow to green over time. In comparison to other Philodendron plants, the stems are much longer.
The distinctive shapes of the leaves make them stand out. Additionally, the plant has several lobes on each leaf.
Even more intriguing than the forms of the leaves are their hues. The term “Florida ghost” refers to them appearing white at first.
The Philodendron Florida ghost is ideal for you if you enjoy tropical plants – exotic, rare, beautiful, and simple to maintain.
P. lacerum species make the best houseplants ever because they grow under all light and soil conditions. Their watering requirements are relatively minimal, making it a great choice for beginners. This is a tropical epiphyte, which grows on living trees as a non-parasitic guest.
Known for its deep green, multi-level foliage, and low-maintenance requirements, it’s a favorite houseplant wherever local temperatures permit.
Caring for window leaf Philodendron includes ensuring it gets ample indirect sunlight, regular water, temperatures above 60 degrees Fahrenheit, and relative humidity above 60%.
If you’re not a fan of small-leaf philodendrons, you may want to consider the P. Plowmanii, which sports massive leaves in a gradient of colors. This is probably one of the most exquisite aroids – and I love them all.
As for its care requirements, there isn’t anything particularly difficult or challenging about growing the Plowmanii, especially if you already have some experience with tropical plants.
Philodendron Fibraecataphyllum, aka Philodendron Peru, is a gorgeous climber. Philodendron Peru is a rare Araceae family plant native to Colombia.
It is both epiphytic and terrestrial, presenting heart-shaped leaves with bright green velvety foliage that completely changes into large rippled leaves with top lobes.
If you are into collecting philodendrons, this one is a must-have.
12 Self-Heading (non-climbing) Philodendron Varieties to Grow Indoors
Self-heading is a term occasionally used to describe non-climbing aroids. Give them lots of space to develop because they may get wide over time, often growing twice as broad as tall! The split-leaf Philodendron is excluded from this list (misnamed as P. bipinnatifidum).
Check out my article on the difference between the Split-Leaf Philodendron and the Monstera deliciosa. I explain that the split-leaf isn’t a Philodendron but a Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum.
Self-heading philodendrons are often cultivated as specimen plants suitable for tabletop containers. The self-headers can also be grouped in sizable in-ground planters to simulate a tropical grove.
Hanging planters with self-heading philodendrons are occasionally used inside, although this is uncommon because the plants lack leaves that drape over the container.
Here’s the list of my favorite 12 self-heading Philodendrons
- Philodendron Birkin
- Fiddleleaf Philodendron
- Philodendron Prince of Orange
- Philodendron ‘Winterbourn’ Xanadu
- Philodendron ‘Congo Rojo’
- Moonlight Philodendron
- Tri-Leaved Philodendron
- Lacy tree philodendron
- Philodendron Maximum
- Philodendron Mamei
- Philodendron Giganteum Variegata
- Philodendron Gloriosum
You’re in for a treat if you’re lucky enough to have this stunning one-of-a-kind houseplant in your home. The brilliant yellow striping on dark green glossy foliage will give your living room a lot of personality.
The P. Birkin is a hybrid of the Rojo Congo and Imperial Green cultivars, hybrids of Philodendron erubescens.
Among its most distinguishing features is the dark-colored leaves with bright yellow patterned lines. It may revert to its Rojo Congo parentage, a dark red plant.
You may know it as horsehead Philodendron, panda plant, and P. panduriforme.
P. bipennifolium is a large, non-climbing, semi-woody shrub with enormous, glossy, wavy-margined, deeply-dissected evergreen leaves that can reach a length of three feet.
These leaves emerge from the plant crown in a rosette-like arrangement on long petioles.
Native to tropical and subtropical regions of Paraguay and southeast Brazil is the tree philodendron. It matures to 15 feet tall with a stem that resembles a trunk up to 6 inches in diameter in its natural habitat, but an indoor container plant will normally grow much smaller.
A stunning, brilliant orange leaf may be seen on the Philodendron Prince of Orange. However, these leaves will gradually turn a deep green as they ripen.
Prince of Orange will exhibit various salmon and orange hues before reaching maturity and turning a medium-light green.
Self-heading and capable of rising to a height of 18 inches in a shaded location, Philodendron Prince of Orange is the perfect indoor plant.
The enormous leaves sprout from a central base, and the older leaves wither and fall off as new growth emerges. But because this Philodendron can tolerate low light and humidity, indoor container cultivation is a good fit.
A hybrid philodendron variety called “Winterbourn” has a mounding habit with a thick, compact, dark crimson spathe. It is unknown exactly which Philodendron bipinnatifidum specimen the seed from this cultivar was taken from.
Plants may grow up to 4 feet tall and spread over 5 feet at maturity. The glossy, deeply lobed leaves, which may grow up to 12 inches long and 7 inches broad, are supported by long petioles. From a robust, often unbranched stem, the leaf protrudes.
This plant is covered by patent PP7030 and is frequently offered at nurseries and garden centers under the name XANADU.
The Philodendron Congo Rojo is an appealing warm-weather plant with intriguing foliage. Its young leaves, which unfold in a rich, glossy crimson, give it the “Rojo” name. The leaves eventually turn dark green as they mature.
Caring for it is simple if you keep the Philodendron Congo Rojo warm. Below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, the plant will suffer severe damage due to its extreme sensitivity to cold.
While it can withstand brief bursts of intense heat, it will struggle if exposed to temperatures above 100 degrees Fahrenheit for an extended time.
It should be between 76- and 86-degrees Fahrenheit in the daytime, while at night, it should be between 65 and 72 degrees.
These often match most home environments, making it an ideal house plant.
The Moonlight is a spectacular hybrid with its incredibly bright, almost fluorescent green foliage (the actual color is chartreuse).
Besides that, it has a low clumping growth habit. Hence it provides great color contrast for your tropical garden.
Philodendron Moonlight is a hybrid variety of Philodendron and is a very popular and easy-to-care-for houseplant.
This Philodendron is a low-growing and shrub-like tropical plant. However, it can grow quite large over time, around two feet by two feet.
Philodendron Moonlight has light-green foliage with new leaves with bright yellow-green chartreuse color. Its foliage tends to get coarser with age, and its leaves become more prominently ribbed.
Interestingly, the Philodendron Moonlight produces white spadix with a pink to red spathe in the wild, though they won’t flower in captivity. Selective reproduction?
The P. tripartitum is known for its three-lobed glossy leaves on thin vining stalks. Philodendron It looks quite similar to the Syngonium auritum, and the two are often confused with each other – a point worth noting by buyers.
The S. aurtium has noticeably shorter leaves than the P. tripartitum, which has more slender leaves.
This tropical aroid grows naturally in the United States East and Gulf coasts and is popular as a houseplant.
The Lacy Tree Philo is simple to grow and adds a touch of the tropics to any setting. It is mostly grown for its large, unique leaf.
In its original environment, this tropical plant may reach heights of up to 15 feet and have leaves as long as 5 feet. It normally reaches 5 to 6 feet when grown indoors, with 2 to 3 feet long leaves.
A Philodendron Selloum will grow to be a long-lasting member of your plant family with a life span of 15 years or more if given the right amount of light, water, humidity, and fertilizer.
Like most Philodendrons, this variety prefers moist but well-draining soil and some humidity. It should be staked or allowed to climb moss poles as it grows. Numerous aerial roots will form in higher humidity environments, giving the plants a beautiful look.
Philodendron maximum can produce some of the largest foliage in the genus. Take a look at some larger specimens here.
One of my favorite philodendron totems is called Mamei. It has enormous, heart-shaped leaves that are velvety and colored crimson on the underside of new growth—supported by 18 to 24-inch petioles or leaves.
This fascinating plant develops to enormous dimensions when given a damp totem or a tree to climb. This plant will certainly wow you if you have the room.
One of the biggest (and rarest) known large variegated philodendrons is the P. Giganteum. This monster may create tons of leaves in the shape of elephant ears as it grows along the ground. In the ideal habitat, the enormous leaves may grow to a length of 3 to 4 feet and a width of around 3 feet.
Giganteum Variegata is a very easy-to-grow tropical plant that requires little care indoors or out. Like other aroids, many species of Philodendron can be grown as houseplants or outdoors in mild climates. They thrive in moist soils with high organic matter and grow best with filtered sunlight.
I have certainly left the best for last.
The species name, Philodendron, translates to tree-loving (Philo – friend; dendron – tree), but the Philodendron gloriosum is not a vining plant. In 2019 the IUCN classified P. gloriosum as vulnerable in its natural habitats in Colombia and the Hawaiian Islands.
The self-heading plant’s foliage is heart-shaped, presenting a velvet surface and pink margins, emphasized by a delta of white, pale green, or pinkish veins, like an aerial view of a river in a mountainous area.
It is truly a spectacular plant, and its presence on the red list of endangerment is most unfortunate. Growing one of these plants serves nature well, and propagating it is simple, so check out that article.
General Care for Philodendron Plants
Like most plants, the growing needs are best achieved by mimicking the plant’s natural habitat. Interestingly, the Philodendron family (tree-loving) photoresponse is negative, i.e., they grow away from the light source. This helps epiphytes find the trees casting the shadow, using them to grow high enough to reach the direct sun. Like the P. gloriosum, terrestrial species grow laterally along the ground.
Philodendron Potting Mix
The preferred soil must represent the forest floor, a medium rich in decaying organic matter, moist yet light and well aerated. The pH should be slightly acidic, just off basic at 6.80. Most important is ensuring some microorganisms are in the soil by adding compost.
So let’s replicate the forest floor soil for our precious and spectacularly beautiful P. gloriosum:
- We’ll use coconut coir for good water retention, as it’s renewable, neutral, and drains water well while not drying out. Remember, you want to keep your roots damp but definitely not wet.
- For aeration, we’ll add perlite, an amorphous volcanic glass with a relatively high water content, typically formed by obsidian hydration. As a soil additive, it’s light and prevents compaction, promoting airflow in soil.
- Horticultural charcoal. Activated charcoal (carbon) in industrial settings controls odors, purifies liquids, and absorbs gasses. As a soil amendment, it helps balance pH levels, supports bioactivity, prevents compaction, and aids water management (drainage and retention). Unlike other carbon materials, charcoal does not bind nitrogen as it is already stable and can’t be decayed further.
- Compost builds soil health and promotes the population diversity of essential soil-borne microorganisms to break complex compounds down to bioavailable nutrients. Many slow-release fertilizers are microorganism-dependent.
- The fungi-to-bacteria ratio on forest floors is about 100:1. One reason is that fungi are needed to break down the lignin in wood, and the other is that fungi play a symbiotic role in feeding plants via mycorrhizal networks, as this Harvard study shows. Adding leaf mold to your mix is a great way to boost your fungi population.
So, ideally, we want a balanced mix of the five ingredients listed above. Adding about 5 pounds of dolomite per cubic yard of potting soil will help with the plant’s calcium and magnesium needs.
Philodendron Light Requirements
In nature, Philodendrons grow on the forest floor in the shade with lateral rhizome expansion. They grow big, sturdy leaves that resemble solar panels to maximize access to available light for photosynthesis.
A Lux reading of between 16,000 and 27,000 (1500 – 2500 foot-candle) is needed for optimal growth. To contextualize that, see the comparable Lux table below:
|Natural Light Condition||Typical Lux|
|Direct Sunlight||32,000 to 100,000|
|Ambient Daylight||10,000 to 25,000|
|Sunset & Sunrise||400|
|Moonlight (Full moon)||1|
|Night (No moon)||< 0.01|
Keep the soil damp but prevent it from becoming soggy. Most aroid plants prefer to have their roots in slightly moist soil, but dry soil is preferable to water-bound soil for an extended time, which can lead to root rot.
One of the most common causes of aroid plant death is water mismanagement, and too much water and extended droughts will cause this plant to lose vitality.
Reliable yet basic ways of measuring soil moisture are the finger test or weighing the pot (if practical).
I advise you not to rely on the top inch or two methods as the roots can still be water-bound, even if the top inch is dry.
Philodendron Preferred Temperature Range
Philodendrons require a temperature that does not exceed 85°F (29°C) at midday temperatures and does not dip below 60°F during the nighttime.
A good indicator of a plant’s preferred temperature is the seed germination temperature of 75 to 80°F for most Philodendron self-heading types.
Winter cold causes chlorosis to appear first on the lower leaves. Various cold-protection methods can help you avoid becoming chilled.
Excessively bright light or a lack of nourishment can also cause light color. Plant color will be assured if the required light levels and fertilizer application rates are followed.
Philodendron Preferred Humidity Range
These plants thrive in slightly higher humidity, between 60 and 80%. If the relative humidity drops below 40%, you should invest in an indoor humidifier to boost humidity levels – even to 100%.
Potted plants are prone to nutrients being leached due to increased watering. It’s important to provide plants with extensive foliage, like P. gloriosum, with regular diluted feeds of liquid fertilizer. Using compost in your mix increases the cation exchange capacity (CEC).
The CEC improves the soil nutrient (and moisture) holding capacity, reducing the amount leached by successive watering in well-drained soil.
CEC is a magnet for nutrients, keeping them close to the roots where the plant can use them.
The occasional addition of Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) will also boost growth. Magnesium is a positive ion and thus not affected by CEC, meaning it is prone to be leached out of the soil, even if compost is present in the mix.
Philodendrons propagate exceptionally well by a terminal, leaf petiole, or sectional cutting. Air layering is also an option.
Most of the self-heading hybrid Philodendrons are only propagatable using tissue culture. These include:
- Black Cardinal Philodendron
- Emerald Prince Philodendron
- Imperial Green Philodendron
- Imperial Red Philodendron
- Moonlight Philodendron
- Prince Albert Philodendron
- Prince of Orange Philodendron
- Xanadu Philodendron
As mentioned earlier, Phillies should be cultivated in a potting medium that drains well yet can retain moisture. Check the soil section above for the best advice (or any of my aroid plants articles).
To correct the pH to around 6.0, dolomite combined with the potting medium at a rate of 4 to 10 pounds per cubic yard is usually used.
The amount of dolomite used will depend on the initial acidity of the mix and the expected influence of fertilization and irrigation water on the pH of the mix.
A microelement blend can be applied when mixing or as a post-plant treatment with a soluble microelement mix.
Microelements should also be regularly administered during crop development as part of a liquid fertilizer program.
A fertilizer with a 3-1-2 or 2-1-2 ratio should be applied at 2.9 to 3.4 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet per month.
Common Problems with Philodendrons
|Chlorosis (yellowing) of lower leaves||Exposure to 33 to 40°F for several hours||Avoid low temperatures|
|Petioles become excessively long, and the plant has an open appearance||Light Levels are too low||Grow plants under higher light levels|
|Leaf color fades or looks bleached out||Light levels may be too high, or fertilizer rates too low||Check light levels and fertilizer rates – adjust as needed|
|Older leaves have v-shape chlorosis, which spreads from the petiole attachment to the leaf margin. Midrib remains green.||Magnesium deficiency||Apply magnesium sulfate at a rate of 0.5 to 0.8 oz. per gallon of water|
|Leaves have a wrinkled line dotted with chlorotic or necrotic spots in the basal portion of the leaf lobe.||Pesticide phytotoxicity or burns from drying liquid fertilizer in the leaf roll||Older leaves have v-shape chlorosis, which spreads from the petiole attachment to the leaf margin. Midrib remains green.|
|New leaves of hybrid philodendrons are slightly twisted or distorted||Calcium deficiency||Increase calcium levels in liquid fertilizer or apply chelate calcium.|
|New leaves are purplish and twisted and may appear torn or have purplish spots.||Manganese toxicity||Apply 20-20-20 liquid fertilizers at a rate of 3.2 oz per 10 gallons of water. Do not exceed recommended pesticide rates.|
|Margins of older leaves turn brownish, and discoloration spreads towards the midrib||Potassium deficiency||Increase potassium levels in liquid feed or growing medium|
|Irregular patches of leaf margins become necrotic.||Water stress combined with high light||Maintain soil moisture levels and reduce light levels|
|Chlorosis and reduced leaf size||Nitrogen deficiency||Apply a granular, high-nitrogen fertilizer|
|Leaf scorch on tips of older foliage.||Sodium toxicity||Apply extra potassium, topdress with gypsum, and switch to a less saline water source|
|Burned patches in the centers and tips of foliage||Sunburn||Increase irrigation frequency and move to a lower light area|
|Bronzed edges||Light levels or temperatures are too high||Move the plant to an area that provides a better environment|
Philodendron Gloriosum Diseases
|Bacterial Leaf Spot||Translucent spots on leaf margins become reddish-brown with yellow halos. Large spots are tan and irregularly shaped.||Translucent spots on leaf margins become reddish-brown with yellow halos. Large spots are tan and irregularly shaped.|
|Bacterial Blight Philodendron selloum||Purchase plants free from the disease. Avoid overhead watering. Remove infected leaves.||Small, very dark green spots on leaves expand rapidly and spread to petioles. Infected leaves collapse in a wet rot that smells foul.|
|Cold Injury||Very dark green to brown blotches from between leaf veins.||Avoid overhead watering. Remove infected leaves of plants not severely affected—water in a manner that keeps the surfaces of leaves and petiole dry at all times.|
|Magnesium Deficiency||V-shaped yellow areas form on leaves, especially in cool greenhouses.||Apply one teaspoon of magnesium sulfate (Epsom salts) per gallon of water.|
|Tip Curl||Do not place plants near air conditioners. Maintain temperatures above 55° F.||Leaf tips curl downward, and leaf margins are brown. Roots die.|
Potential Philodendron Pests
The major arthropod pests of this plant species include aphids, moths (worms), fungus gnats, mealybugs, scales, shore flies, and thrips. Mealybug, mite, and scale infestations are typically the result of pre-infested plant material.
Philodendron Gloriosum is a poisonous plant for humans, cats and dogs, and it can cause throat discomfort, swallowing difficulty, mouth pain, cramping, and other complications if swallowed. Digesting in large quantities can cause cramping, convulsions, renal failure, and coma.
12 Climbing Philodendron Varieties to Grow Indoors
Philodendrons that climb or vine (epiphytic) look great on a trellis, moss pole, or growing in a hanging basket, include:
- Heart Leaf Philodendron (Philodendron Hieracium, also referred to as P. scandens), with popular varieties such as Brazil, Areum, and Micans
- Red-leaf Philodendron (P. erubescens), with compact growing hybrids like
- Pink Princess
- Prince of Orange (Self-Heading)
- Blushing Philodendron (P. erubescens ‘Burgundy’), which in turn is the parent of four sub-cultivars;
- King of Spades
- Painted Lady
- Red Duchess. The latter two are crosses between Burgundy and Emerald Green.
- Elephant’s Ear Philodendron (P. domesticum)
- Brandi philodendron (P. brandtianum)
- Birdsnest philodendron (P. imbe)
- Silversword (P. hastatum)
- Velour philodendron (P. melanochrysum)
- Grazielae Philodendron (P. Grazielae)
- Philodendron Florida Beauty (P. pedatum) – The variegated form of the original green Florida Beauty hybrid and the Florida Ghost are the former’s sports (genetic mutation). [source]
- Window Leaf Philodendron (P. Lacerum)
- Philodendron plowmanii
- Philodendron Peru (P. fibraecataphyllum)
Philodendron is my recommendation for houseplants, and I have tried to give the most comprehensive guide to make it easy for you to grow these adorable plants. Create your own tropical forest, mixing and matching, adding hues, texture, and dimension.
It’s all possible using Philodendrons. Of course, if you add others to the Arum family, you could be astounded.
I’ve enclosed some information on how to care for them and hope you’ll give growing and propagating them a go.
The recipe for success is simple: They prefer soil representing the forest floor, a medium rich in decaying organic matter, moist yet light and well aerated.
The pH should be slightly acidic, just off basic at 6.80. You could add some wood ash and an abundance of microorganisms essential for making plant nutrients bioavailable.